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28/4/2013: Where is everyone??
It seems like everyone has left us!! A couple of days ago we were so many people here and now we are all of a sudden very very few left. Joe and Amelia left the island along with Shawn and Carris, Tim, Dino and Miti went to Semporna to pick up supplies and Mida went home to Kalapuan for a few days.... So now we are only 5 people here :O
Everything completely changes when you are so few! This afternoon I came back from my turtle snorkel and for the first time since I got here I sat in Number 4 (our dining room/relax area) for almost an hour all by myself........ It was crazy, being on a tiny island you kind of get used to always having people around so it was almost scary being all alone :) I went looking for the others and it took me 10 minutes before finding anyone (10 minutes might not sound like much but considering you can walk all the way around the island in 25 then it is actually quite a bit of time hehe)!!
The funny thing was that I wasn't the only one that had been looking for someone - it seemed as if we had all realized that the camp was quiet and had all gone to have a look around which made us work in circles without passing each other!! It was almost like a treasure hunt :)
We have over the last few weeks talked about how it would be to be so few people on the island (CBR next door only had 2 guests today so the island truely felt deserted) but tonight we discovered the problem with it: After cooking for 14-15 people for a few weeks, you forget how to cook for fewer and so we accidently made a dinner that could feed us for at least 3 days :D To avoid having to admit our mistake we decided that the vegetable was about to go off anyway and that we only made so much food to avoid throwing out stuff........... Lie!!!
Now that we have enjoyed our large dinner I have just realized the most amazing thing: I can now go to bed early and I won't have to get up for 7 hours!!!!!!!!!!!! I have been waiting for a night like this for 2 weeks now and I am sure I will sleep like a baby because I have had a serious lack of sleep lately - I know I said that I out here will learn to sleep less but 4 hours a night for 2 weeks in a row is just a little too little :)
I has been a very strange day at Pom Pom (don't get me wrong, it was absolutely awesome getting a bit of quiet time alone) and we are now looking forward to welcoming our 4 new volunteers tomorrow afternoon - all 4 of them are here for a months so we are looking forward to meet them and we are hoping that they are good fun and that they can bring in some energy because we are all a little bit tired after a tough few days!
I hope you are all well, healthy and happy
Susannah x
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26/4/2013: The Pom Pom Population
A while ago I was asked about the tourists and local people here on Pom Pom Island and since I don't have many exciting news from today, I guess this would be a good time to answer the question!!
THere are 4 properties on Pom Pom Island: Pom Pom Island Resort (the big fancy resort), the PGA (military police) house (the big nice house), Celebes Resort (the nice resort) and TRACC (the camp site)!!
The PGA house operates as a tiny military base, mostly for our safety but also because there previously have been different issues that required military presence in the area. However, the two military men with their ridiculously big guns are rarely seen around the island and so it is completely possible to forget about their house since it is not very obvious from the beach where it is - nevertheless, it is here and we do sometimes benefit from having them around as they take care of poachers if we report them.
Pom Pom Island Resort (PPIR) and Celebes Resort (CBR) are the two only resorts on the island and while some people might think that two resorts on a 2 squarekilometer little island might be slightly overkill then I think that all non-milionaers will appreciate it, as spending one night at Pom Pom Island resort costs the humble sum of 300 euros!! CBR on the other hand is a 3* hotel and the prices are a lot more affordable than at PPIR, so should you fancy a little trip to Pom Pom (which I can highly recommend) then I can recommend that you have a look both resorts before booking. You would think that the huge difference in the price would attract very different guests but that doesn't really seem to be the case. Most of the guests on both resorts are here because they are crazy about diving and snorkelling!! So far the only difference I have seen between the guests at the two resorts is the size of the lenses on their cameras and I have a suspicion that the guests are one of the resorts wear all the expensive labels while the guests at the other resort wears the fake copies of the expensive labels! But really, most of them are lovely people - the only problem with them is that none of them seem to understand the three little sweet words "Do Not Touch" which when you are in an area where we are trying to do conservation work is a bit difficult but at the end of the day most of the touching hurts themselves (corals can be nasty bastards) more than the reefs :) So to answer the question in short: The tourists out here are all water lovers, they spend most of their time here under water which is probably the best anyway since the island doesn't have much other than a fantastic view both above and below water and beautiful diving!!
![](/uf/80000_89999/82615/L/8d9c8b8e4df38c29989b5a5718dc4d65.jpg)
"Pom Pom Island Resort - Beautiful"
![](/uf/80000_89999/82615/L/c32c14a8dc14456823b4706dcff85c4b.jpg)
"TRACC - Beautiful it in its own right!"
The last address on the island is ours... Turtle beach 4!! Most tourists don't even come near us but we do occationally have guests coming over to have a look at what we do, and when they do we feel slightly like animals in a zoo or a circus because they take pictures of us, our tents, the kitchen and come into our dining area where they ask us if we sell beer - had they asked for candyfloss or ice cream we really would think that they thought they were in the circus but since they ask for beer we choose to believe that they just think we are a cool after diving party... I personally think that they best way of experiencing Pom Pom is from our camp site but maybe ask me again in a couple of weeks and I will want to give anything to spend a night in one of the resorts :)
How are you all doing? Happy campers?
Susannah x
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25/4/2013: Tubing and wave boarding... Yes we are all children deep down
Today is Thursday and I guess we technically should have done work but Joe and Amelia are leaving tomorrow and we wanted to have a bit of fun with them as thank you for coming back to fill in after Steve Oakley left. The past three weeks they have been running this place and so we thought we would give them a fun day to remember us all by so for one day only we turned the big tractor rubber ring that we are maent to repair our boat with into a water tube that we draged after the speedboat!! It was an AMAZING day!!!!
Flic and Evie had left for Semporna for a day so it was only Tim, Sofie, Joe, Amelia, Fletcher and I but soon after everyone else on the island realized what we were doing we very joined at the jetty by a cheering crowd of local staff and some of the staff members from the CBR resort that is our neighbours. The tube was so much fun, in the end the boat was at full speed and the tube was almost flying after the boat!!!
When we ran out of petrol we had a nice beer in the water and after dinner we had ice cream and watched a movie - BY FAR the best day I think we will have on Pom Pom (I mean those of you who knows me well knows that ice cream can make my day at any time so when ending an awesome day with ice cream just kind of makes it a perfect day)!!!
I was actually planning on telling you a little about the camp and the other projects that we have going on (the diving projects) but that will have to wait because I had to tell you about this first :)
Happy bank holiday to all you lovely Danish people - I have to admit that can't remember which bank holiday it is but I heard you have a long weekend off so I hope you all enjoy it!! To my Irish friends: Good luck with exams starting on Monday, I will be sending positive thoughts your way
Susannah x
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22/4/2013: Turtle project description
I got a request for a more detailed description of the turtle project that I work on here but before I give that, I would like to clear up one thing since my last two posts seem contradictory: It is hugely interesting to be out here, we do a lot of interesting work and we go on cool trips to the other islands BUT Sundays are very boring since Sundays are non-work-dry-days (no work for any of us and no diving for the divers) and we therefore have to try entertain us selves which can be difficult to do for a whole day on a deserted island! However, I do think that it is a necessary day to have since we do get really tired during the week and we all need a day a week to let our wounds heal(most people have nasty infected wounds on feet and legs that seems to get worse every day we are in the salt water) and to let our hands and feet dry a bit so that we do not develop fish-like fins. So, I'll survive being bored one day a week :)
Right, so now on to the turtle project description!! The question was: "I would very much like to hear more about the turtles, the turtle patrols and see some photos of the turtles! Are the patrols mainly to protect the turtles from other animals or from peole stealing the eggs?"
The main objective of the turtle volunteer project is to monitor and collate turtle population counts around Pom Pom island. There are two different species inhabitating the waters around Pom Pom Island, the main species being the Green Turtle and the other species being the Hawksbill Turtle which is less commonly seen. Both species are protected species, the Green Turtle being classified as an endangered species while the Hawksbill is a critically endangered species and it is therefore in our interest to monitor the population sizes of the two species and it is also in our interest to ensure that as many of the turtle eggs as possible hatch so that the turtle populations can increase in the future.
![](/uf/80000_89999/82615/L/0f7b813f8d494e451982b8a4f36304b5.jpg)
"A female Hawksbill Turtle"
The monitoring of the turtle population sizes is carried out by conducting population count surveys at high and low tide on a daily basis. The high tide surveys aims to count feeding turtles as the high tide allow them to move up onto the seagrass bed that are found a couple of meters from the coast. Low tide surveys are conducted at the wall edge which is the place where turtles like to rest and this has to be done during low tide since the wall edge is fairly deep and it can therefore be very difficult to see all the turtles on the bottom at any other time that low tide. Both surveys are carried out by snorkelling long transects in different designated sectors around the island and then simply noting the species and the sex of each of the turtles found along the transect. Special characteristics like injuries etc are also noted if there are any, and these data are used to make up a turtle identification database (we fx have our resident turtle named George which was identified to have its territory right off the coast from our camp and we now all know when we see him).
This data allows TRACC to be able to monitor how the turtle populations develop in the future - it is especially interesting to see if the turtle populations change over time as the coral reefs are being restored by the use of artificial reef building structures. This is however, a very long term project that is only in the beginning stages as last year was the first year that these surveys were carried out and so I don't believe that I will get to see any results from all the surveys before I leave in the end of June but I guess that is the way things are when during scientific experiments/surveys.
While the surveys are long term projects of which the results might not be ready for many years, the beach patrols that we conduct twice every night can be classified as showing fast results! Every night, twice a night, we patrol the beaches to ensure that eggs from all nests are being relocated to the Pom Pom Island Resort's hatchery and this is done to prevent the high volume of illegal egg poaching. It has been illegal to collect turtle eggs for a while but it is still common for locals to eat the eggs and just in the last few days we have experienced turtle nests having been dug up and the eggs taken before we got a chance to get to them - very frustrating!!!
The patrol in itself is very simple, we just walk up and down the beach two hours after dark and one hour after high tide and when turtle tracks are found we look for the nest. While I have been here we have still not found a turtle nesting but if that happens we are to keep 5 meters distance from the nesting turtle, wait for her to dig a hole and once she has layed the eggs and returned to the ocean the eggs are to be placed one at a time into a bucket that is then brought to the hatchery. The turtles are very sensitive during nesting and it is therefore very important that they are not distrubed - we therefore do not carry flaslights or cameras with flash, do not make any loud noises and do absolutely not in any way touch the turtle before or after nesting.
Nesting season is only just about to begin but we do see more and more turtle track on the beach at night so we should hopefully soon have lots of eggs in the hatchery. It takes approximately 2 months for the eggs to hatch and once they hatch in the hatchery they are being guided into the ocean where they swim off to play around for around 20 years until they become sexually mature at which point they are very likely to come back to the beach where they hatched to lay eggs of their own if they are females.
I hope this answers the question and that it has given you a bit of an idea of what it is that I spend my days doing!!
I gotta go, I have a low tide survey coming up in 15 minutes so I better go get changed into our TRACC uniform (read bikini - we all more or less live in our swimsuits all day, every day)
Be safe and I will try to be the same,
Susannah x
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21/4/2013: ....... Hm, I really can't think of an interesting title
Yes, it has been one of those days where nothing much has been going on! No diving, no snorkelling (not much snorkelling anyway), no day trip, no coral collection, no artificial reef building...... In fact, I can't actually tell you what did happen today because I have no clue!! Sofie made lovely Milo pancakes for breakfast and next thing it is evening and I am supposed to give an update, hm I guess island-syndrome is starting to kick in already :)
It is strange how we look forward to the weekend so much out here and when we come to Sunday we are already getting so bored that we don't know what to do with ourselves - afterall there isn't that many things to do on a 2 squarekilometer small island, in a camp that only has electricity at night or at least you have to be really creative to find things to do and for some reason none of us seem to be creative on Sundays!
I guess the life style we live out here makes us workaholics - It is only when we don't do work that we realize how hot it is everywhere and how nice it would be to get a cold shower and take on clean clothes!! But somehow even the slow days pass super fast and before we know it, it is yet again time for work at all odd hours of the day (and by Monday afternoon we are already looking forward to weekend again - A phenomenon I believe most working people can relate to HaHa)!!
I have to be up again in 4 hours to do a turtle partrol so I think I better go to bed now. It is also a super warm night so being in the tent might be the most pleasant place to be since our tents, unlike the rest of the camp, have fans!!
I hope you have all had a lovely weekend,
Susannah x
P.S If there is anything specific that you would like to know about TRACC, the island, what I do here, who are here or anything else please don't hesitate dropping a comment in the guestbook and I will make sure that I answer the questions in the next entries.
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21/4/2013: The island of Mataking and a saturday night jungle party
After Ivan's sudden departure as well as a few planned departures we are now down to a nice little group of 11 people which means that we have a lot more freedom when it comes to planning our fun-dive-days! TRACC only has 2 boats (very tiny boats that are both struggling when we load all our dive and snorkel gear onto them) but yesterday our local staffmember Miti offered to help take some of us in his boat so that we could have a nice day at Mataking. Mataking is very similar to many of the other islands around here but it has a shipwreck not far from the coast which the divers really wanted to see and us snorkelers went along for some more beautiful snorkelling. While I am here to work on the turtle project I have been allowed (because I am here for so long) to do a bit of diving now and again but unfortunately I couldn't dive yesterday because my eye still isn't completely perfect and I didn't want to risk hurting it - But I am sure I will get another chance to dive at the wreck before I go home so it is okay :)
The little day trip we have every now and again are really nice - they almost make it seem like there is a difference between weekdays and weekend (even though there isn't really much difference, every day is a sunny day in the ocean)!!! However yesterday it wasn't so much the trip to Mataking that made it seem like weekend, it was the jungle party we had afterwards! After returning home to TRACC we had "happy-hour" sitting in the water having cold beer and chatting away.... Oh how sweet life can be with a cold beer in your hand, sitting in the ocean watching the sunset!!!! :D
After a few hours of that we had a nice dinner and then the drinking game madness started! I have never meet a bunch of people that knows as many drinking games as my fellow volunteers.... It is SO much fun!!! We played "huh", "the witch, what witch? Oh the witch!" and lots of card games! We basically laughed for 4 hours in a row, it was GREAT!!
Carys and I ended the night after most of the others had gone to bed by doing a little turtle patrol but we unfortunateely didn't find any nesting turtles but it was still a really good day!!
Lis, Lis og B&B tak for de søde hilsner! Jeg lover at passe rigtig godt på mig selv herude :)
I will leave you now and go back out in the sun and join the rest of our group that have garthered on the jetty for a sunday relaxation session.
Susannah x
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19/4/2013: Work trip to Kapikan
Most of us are now feeling a lot better and we are slowly getting back to normal except that Ivan had to leave early as his outing to the hospital turned out to be a bit more serious than first expected! Ivan is going to be fine but he has to go back to keep out of the water for a while and his condition has to be monitored so he came back this afternoon to pack his things - It was a very sad ending to his stay here but we all wish him the best of luck with his recovery and hope he is able to continue his journey to Indonesia where he was planning on doing his divermaster training soon.
After saying goodbye to Ivan, a couple of us went to Kapikan to collect hard coral that we plant on the artificial ribbon reefs that we have set up under water in various spots around the island. Kapikan is a beautiful coral reef located 20-25km away, it is very easy to get to and the snorkels there are amazing but unlike Kalapuan, Kapikan doesn't have much fish but the corals are so stunning that no fish are needed to be mesmerized!!
We took a few photos but they are still on the underwater camera which the divers just took diving but as soon as I get a chance, I will try upload a few :)
This evening we just had a quiet night - Last week we had an Italian family with 2 kids (11 and 14 years old) and now that they have left we needed a quiet evening without too much acion (they were very sweet kids but they talked non-stop and we constantly needed to do things so they didn't get bored). So we just watched a film and I am now going to bed!!
I hope you are all happy! Sweeet dreams to you all,
Susannah x
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18/4/2013: A cribbled bunch
When looking from afar we might look like a group of young, healthy and hardworking marine lovers but when looking a little closer you will soon see that currently this is not the case at all!!! We are really just a sad bunch of cribbled people on an almost deserted island..... While some people are still standing strong, most of us have by now a wide range of health issues that are preventing us from working as much as we want to! Out of the 12 people currently working at TRACC only 4 are completely healthy and happy while the rest of us have a wide range of silly little problems. Sofie have been out of the water for a few days now since she accidently toughed a piece of fire coral which is poisoness, Jonathan and Flic have ear infections, Amelia a bad stomach, Shawn problems with infected blisters on his feet, Ivan got stung by a crown of thorns which potentially can numb your body completely and he therefore had to go to the hospital on the mainland earlier today and I somehow stupidly made a scrath in my eye and cannot wear my contact lenses (luckily it is not in the cornia so my sight is not affected but it still hurts)..... So as you can see we are a very sad bunch!!!! However, the mood is not affected at all and that is really the most important thing :)
I have been out of the water for a little more than a day now (which around here is almost unthinkable and highly uncomfortable because of the heat) but my eye is slowly looking better and I am hoping that I will be able to snorkel tomorrow (I miss my slow mornings with the turtles already)! If not, then we will just have to continue with kite project which is really a good thing since we are yet to get useful data. Today was the first day we got a good shot and as soon as I have imported the video I will try to upload a little bit of it so you can see what it looks like. Since the last time we are now using a different camera and a different boat and the photage has improved 100% (the kite has not crashed since the little accident a few days ago... yay) - we are still far from happy with the results but we are very, very happy with the progress.
I am getting reallyt tired of my eyes tearing up all the time but I am so pleased that it has happened a week when I am not the only snorkeller. Carys and Shawn have been doing most of the turtle surveying with me standing on the side line helping and guiding them and they have done a really great job - by the end of this week we should have a good bit of data that we can pass on to Steve Oakley. I know that I am not a fully qualified scientist but I reckon the turtle surveying data we collect would be perfect for a dissertation (bachelor project) write up but since I had already done most of my dissertation when I found out that I was to repeat the year I am not really interested in going any further with the data than what we will be doing here.
However, if any of you are sitting out there somewhere thinking that you don't have any ideas of what to do for your dissertation or thesis and have a few months you don't know what to do with, you should definitely come out here and collect data (it doesn't necessarily have to be turtle surveying there are lots of other projects going on that I reckon could give really good results)!
Right, I gotta go, dinner is almost ready and while I am not sure how it is possible, doing almost nothing today apart from a little kite flying and survey instruction, has made me really hungry!
Susannah x
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16/4/2013: Crashing and sinking....
Today we had the kite out on the boat for the first time (we have flown it from the beach a few times, trying to make it more stable) and as much as I would love to say it was a success I am afraid that was a lie because be almost lost the kite!!! One of our boats currently has a big hole in it and we therefore needed to wait for the divers to be dropped at north tip before we could get the kite flying (I also believe the divers were sort of the reason we failed but I will explain that later).
After dropping the divers, Joe, Fletcher and I were to try to get the kite flying after the boat while sailing over the shallow reef area but we had a few starting difficulties!!We didn't manage to get the kite up at first attempt but luckily the kite wasn't far from the boat when it fell and only parts of the kite got wet. After readjusting a few attachments that we had made (we had added flip flops to try making it float in case it hit the water but that arrangement didn't seem to be aerodynamic enough) we made a second attempt which was much more successful!! We got the kite up, the line out to 70 meters, it was stable (as stable as you can get a kite that has a lot of gear attached) and it flew beautifully! For a while at least.......
As the divers were still out we had to turn the boat around and that in itself was not a problem, we somehow managed to turn the boat in a massive circular movement but when we had turned about 160 degrees the boat engine made a little hick up and the tail of the kite somehow got tangled into the camera attachment and the kite crashed immediately!!!! It looked so cool but we knew that the odds were the kite would sink and therefore tried to get back to where the kite had hit the water as fast as we good but dragging in 70 meters of line takes a while!! The end product was 40 meters of tangled line and a kite that was well on its way down the water column.......
I think all three of us held our breaths for a while when we pulled the kite out of the water but miraculesly nothing happened to the kite at all! The camera was still attached, it wasn't wet inside and all parts of the kite were still there - I cannot describe how relieved we were!! It is always great to have a successful experiment but at that moment I think we were as happy with no damaged having been done than we would have been with the kite flying and filming the way it was meant to... After 1½ of untangelling the line we had a look at the video that was recorded by the kite and while it is still far from great we now have a few ideas of what we need to improve before we try again!
How are you doing? Are you happy? I heard that spring has finally arrived in Copenhagen but how are things looking in Dublin?
I'll be back with more stories soon (hopefully even stories of kite flying success),
Susannah x
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Also, thank you so much for all the comments in the guestbook - It is so nice to hear from you and I am sorry that I am not able to reply or comment on all of the messages!
Hugs,
Susannah x
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14/4/2013: Dry day - getting ready for the arrival of more turtle volunteers
Sunday is "dry day" (no diving) and therfore usually a very quiet day where we get to read a book, go for a walk or do whatever we feel like! Some of us took the opportunity to do a little sun bathing while others built a ford out of the Coca Cola crates that we use for coke reef building (I'll give an explanation another day but in short it is a type of reef structure that we create to provide shelter for fish larvae) - all in all a very uneventful day but I think we all needed that.
In the late afternoon Joe, Fletcher and I went to the large luxury resort that is loacted on the south tip of the island (emphrasis on luxury!!!!!) to have a little chat to them about the turtle patrols that we are now to start doing every night. The resort used to have a marine biologist working on their property but she has left and most of their marine projects have therefore been cancelled. However they still do tagging of turtles and turtle patrols at night time to ensure that the eggs are being protected. The staff of the resort takes the guests on a walk around the island most nights and let the guests help out collecting the eggs. They then bring the eggs to the hatchery (basically a big sand box) where the eggs are looked after until they hatch - they usually hatch after 2 months!
The resort have some guidelines for collection of the eggs (the guests are being informed of what to do and not do to before going) but the biggest problem is that since they do the walks to entertain the guests they always do the walks at the same time. This is a problem because the turtles come to the beach during high tide and lay there eggs just in time to get back to the ocean before the tide retreats and in order to protect as many eggs as possible it is therefore important that the patrols are carried out 1-2 hours afterhigh tide!!!! And this is were we come in to the picture... We don't really sleep much anyway (tents are really not that great when it is as warm as it is out here), we are deeply in love with all the turtles and we care about protecting as many eggs as possible and we are therefore going to do the patrols 2 hours after high tide EVERY night regardless of the time a night!!!!!
The next few days that means I will be doing turtle walks at around 10-11pm but at the end of the week the tide has changed so much that it will be at 4am - luckily I will have company this week as 5 more snorkelers are coming this afternoon :)
So far I have been the only turtle volunteer and while I have enjoyed that very much most of the time, there are times where it would be nice to have a little help and so I am looking forward to having 5 people helping me the next week!
We don't know much about them yet but I believe it is a British couple, 2 French guys and a Dutch girl and they will all be put to work straight away when they arrive - they obviously need a bit of an introduction, a tour and a test snorkel so depending on when the boat comes in I might have to do the second survey of the day alone as well but after that they will hopefully be helping out with most of it so that Fletcher and I can go set up the same surveys on 2 of the other islands around here.
Wow, that was a very long post today - I am sorry if it is all very technical and boring but I have jumped into this knowing very little and every day I learn new things which I cannot help myself but to tell you all about :)
Happy Monday everyone!! And if there is any of my friends from Dublin reading this then I just want to say I hope studying for exams isn't too tough - I will be sending positive thoughts your way every day!!!
Ciao,
Susannah x
P.S I have realized that being out here is great for my coming year of studies!!! I get so little sleep out here that when I come back to Dublin I won't ever have to sleep - I will have all the time that I usually sleep to do crazy student stuff!!
P.P.S I apologize for the many spelling mistakes etc - I usually only have limited time to write these posts so I never read them before posting.... I know that I probably should but I guess this way you will get to read more stories ;)
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14/4/2013: Dry day - getting ready for the arrival of more turtle volunteers
Sunday is "dry day" (no diving) and therfore usually a very quiet day where we get to read a book, go for a walk or do whatever we feel like! Some of us took the opportunity to do a little sun bathing while others built a ford out of the Coca Cola crates that we use for coke reef building (I'll give an explanation another day but in short it is a type of reef structure that we create to provide shelter for fish larvae) - all in all a very uneventful day but I think we all needed that.
In the late afternoon Joe, Fletcher and I went to the large luxury resort that is loacted on the south tip of the island (emphrasis on luxury!!!!!) to have a little chat to them about the turtle patrols that we are now to start doing every night. The resort used to have a marine biologist working on their property but she has left and most of their marine projects have therefore been cancelled. However they still do tagging of turtles and turtle patrols at night time to ensure that the eggs are being protected. The staff of the resort takes the guests on a walk around the island most nights and let the guests help out collecting the eggs. They then bring the eggs to the hatchery (basically a big sand box) where the eggs are looked after until they hatch - they usually hatch after 2 months!
The resort have some guidelines for collection of the eggs (the guests are being informed of what to do and not do to before going) but the biggest problem is that since they do the walks to entertain the guests they always do the walks at the same time. This is a problem because the turtles come to the beach during high tide and lay there eggs just in time to get back to the ocean before the tide retreats and in order to protect as many eggs as possible it is therefore important that the patrols are carried out 1-2 hours afterhigh tide!!!! And this is were we come in to the picture... We don't really sleep much anyway (tents are really not that great when it is as warm as it is out here), we are deeply in love with all the turtles and we care about protecting as many eggs as possible and we are therefore going to do the patrols 2 hours after high tide EVERY night regardless of the time a night!!!!!
The next few days that means I will be doing turtle walks at around 10-11pm but at the end of the week the tide has changed so much that it will be at 4am - luckily I will have company this week as 5 more snorkelers are coming this afternoon :)
So far I have been the only turtle volunteer and while I have enjoyed that very much most of the time, there are times where it would be nice to have a little help and so I am looking forward to having 5 people helping me the next week!
We don't know much about them yet but I believe it is a British couple, 2 French guys and a Dutch girl and they will all be put to work straight away when they arrive - they obviously need a bit of an introduction, a tour and a test snorkel so depending on when the boat comes in I might have to do the second survey of the day alone as well but after that they will hopefully be helping out with most of it so that Fletcher and I can go set up the same surveys on 2 of the other islands around here.
Wow, that was a very long post today - I am sorry if it is all very technical and boring but I have jumped into this knowing very little and every day I learn new things which I cannot help myself but to tell you all about :)
Happy Monday everyone!! And if there is any of my friends from Dublin reading this then I just want to say I hope studying for exams isn't too tough - I will be sending positive thoughts your way every day!!!
Ciao,
Susannah x
P.S I have realized that being out here is great for my coming year of studies!!! I get so little sleep out here that when I come back to Dublin I won't ever have to sleep - I will have all the time that I usually sleep to do crazy student stuff!!
P.P.S I apologize for the many spelling mistakes etc - I usually only have limited time to write these posts so I never read them before posting.... I know that I probably should but I guess this way you will get to read more stories ;)
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13/4/2013: Kalapuan
As I already wrote earlier today, saturday is fun-dive days and we therefore went to Kalapuan which is one of the nearby islands - Kalapuan does not currently have any resorts or anything but there are local people living on the island (the island is not much bigger than Pom Pom).
Kalapuan has the most incredible snorkelling compared to Pom Pom because Kalapuan has not been subject to as much fish bombing as Pom Pom and the are therefore happy campers - healthy and happy!! Because the corals are so healthy this area also has an enormous amount of fish and other marine organisms and while Fletcher, Amelia, Ivan and Jonathan were diving Joe and I had a look around and saw tons of really cool stuff. It is awesome to snorkel with Joe because he knows so much about the different fish, he knows most of the names and he is able to point out all the rare organisms - so it was definitely a day of learning!!
"View from the boat to Kalapuan - the tiny island in the horizon is Pom Pom Island"
After returning to Pom Pom we had a slow afternoon - Everyone was tired and the heat made us even more sleepy so many of us grabbed the first hammock we could find and had a little nap (some of us were so lucky to find a hammock in the breeze - a rare find around here).
Joe and Tim were cooking so that gave the rest of us a chance to enjoy a beer at the end of the jetty, watching the stars while talking about everything and nothing!! There is such a fantastic atmosphere out here at night time - there is something amazing about being on an (almost) deserted island with 12 strangers, all of who have to come here to do the same thing as me and after a few days you already know so much about them!!! We are all different, we all have different backgrounds and personal reasons for being here, we all work towards the same goal here, we all love and respect nature and somehow that make us get to know each other a lot faster than what you do out in "the real world" (we have all come to the conclusion that this doesn't have much to do with real life - it is a paradise of awesomenss!!!!). I have only experienced that once before and that was at the Galathea expedition 6 years ago - not that these two experiences can be compared but they are both so far from the normal everyday life I usually live :)
Anyways, I believe it is time for me to go to bed! We have just finished playing the "mafia-game" which is a really fun game and I have to be ready for tomorrow because even though it is sunday and therefore a dry day where we do no work then we are all very alert these days because we are all playing "murder" which is a game where we each have been given a name of another person, a murder weapon (can be anything from a shoe or an umbrella to a suncream or a beer can) and a location where we are to kill our victims - it is a brilliant game and we are all taking it very seriously so the whole island (execpt the few tourists that are there) are running around trying to kill each other with very funny weapons.
So waking up fresh and rested is a must because I am aiming to stay alive for as many days as possible (ideally I would say that I was aiming to win but some of the others are so good at this that I don't think it is possible to win)
Hope you are all having a fantastic saturday - especially my cousin Megan whos birthday is being celebrated today!!
Bye for now,
Susannah x
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13/4/2013: "Fun-dive day"
Today it is "fun-dive-day" which means that the divers get to do dives that doesn't have anything to do with work! Technically I should still be conducting my turtle survey but today we are all going to one of the other islands for a nice "day-out" and so I'm going along for a little "fun-snorkel".
I'll let you know how the day goes and hopefully I'll have photos. Until then you can have a look at the ribbon reef unit building we did yesterday (link) - I unfortuntaly don't have time to write descriptions but I will do that this evening.
Susannah x
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11/4/2013: My first nasty experience
Right, so I clearly meant to finish the text below yesterday but I was distracted (which happens a lot out here, you mean to do something and you never get around to do it because something interesting happens)!! I then intended to finish the text today but now I have a better story to tell and you will have to wait a little longer for an overview of a normal day at TRACC.
Here we go: This morning I was doing my usual low tide turtle survey along the slope where the ocean become deeper and everything was going fine for about 20 minutes and then things starting going downhill. At first a thought maybe I had just hit something small in the water because I felt a few stings on my back but as I was determined to finish the survey in about 30 minutes I just kept going - BIG MISTAKE......... All of a sudden not only was my back stinging, my legs and shoulders felt like they were on fire and it only took about 20 seconds before I had to jump out of the water as fast as I could - which is not very easy when you are surveying 30 meters from the beach and the tide is so low that there is less then 20 cm of water on top of rubble!!! Once on the beach I had to run into the kitchen where Joe and Amelia were pouring vinegar all over my back and my legs, followed by a bucket of very hot water......
It turns out that it is not very pleasant to swim through a large group of jellyfish around here in the tropics!!!!!!!!!!! The vinegar and the water is rubbed onto the skin in order to kill the stinging cells from the tenacles that are left on the skin by the jellyfish but it still takes quite a while before the stinging stops.. Nevertheless half an hour after I came out of the water lunch was ready and after lunch I was feeling a lot better and am not just left with a few red marks on my skin which is supposed to disappear within 24 hours at the very latest (some of the smaller ones are already gone so it is going in the right direction).
So, so far it has been an eventful day and I am slightly dreading having to get in the water again to finish the survey and to conduct the high tide survey but Tim (the divemaster trainer out here) says that the high abundance of jellyfish this morning could have been caused by the storm we had very early this morning and that by this afternoon there should be less of them. So I just hope that I won't be unlucky twice in a day :)
Tomorrow I hope to be able to tell you about a normal day out here as well as introduce everyone out here. We are now 7 volunteers (three of which are an Italian family that arrived today), 2 interns, 3 staff members and 3 local staff members - so we are slowly getting more and more people out here which is a lot of fun but also very stressful when it is your turn to cook lunch or dinner. We usually do it on a rota so that we cook approximately twice a week (one dinner and one lunch) but as we are not a lot of people we cook more often as we need more people helping out at each meal.
Wishing you all a very lovely Thursday (I guess you have begun your day not that long ago while we are 2 hours off finishing our workday)!
Susannah x
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9/4/2013: An average day here at TRACC
So far my posts have been a bit all over the place describing random things but today I thought I would give you an overview of what a normal day looks like out here in the middle of nowhere! Here we go:
8.00
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8/4/2013: Kite flying
After a couple of slow days relaxing on the beach it was finally time to get some serious work done! As part of the turtle monitoring we want to set up aerial photography in hopes of being able to count turtles from the photos. This is however a pretty different task when you don't have a low flying airplane at your disposal but this little detail is not going to stop us from trying to achieve our goal!!! So, this morning we started out kite experiment.... Yes a kite just like the ones kids set up whenever the wind is good! The aim was to connect a camera to a kite and then let the kite drag a boat behind it while taking photos down over the ocean surface along a transect - Steve had heard that this in theory should work and we therefore woke up this morning with the mission of accomplishing this.
Surprisingly enough we managed to get the kite flying after only 2 failed attemps (the kite needed a stronger frame so we cut a few metal wires and attached them to the kite).
"Another day at the office"
It took us a little while to get the camera attached to the kite but we succeed a lot faster than I had expected. Out here we have to be incredibly innovative and creative in our solutions and it is so fun to see how some ideas that seem rather silly and impossible actually works - most ideas however needs a bit of tweaking before working properly!
"Kite building - attaching the camera to our very colourful kite"
After lunch (which I had to cook by the way - it is quite difficult to cook for 13 people when there is only two small cookers) we were ready for our first "real" attempt to take photos from the kite and I must say that considering we only started building it today it all went rather well!!!
We got a few good photos over land but the kite needs a few (or possibly a bit more than a few) adjustments before we can use it for turtle surveying so the next days/weeks will be spend trying to perfect this low budget/low tech solution and hopefully by the time nesting season begins we will have a good chance of being able to count the turtles.
Here are two of the best photos from our hard work today:
"Beach and the green area that hopefully will become a turtle nesting site"
"A bit shaken but I thought it would be more interesting for you to see a photo that shows the beach than just clear water"
Another great day "at the office" has now ended and I have to go because today is pokernight and I need a crash-course in poker playing before we begin as I have never actually played poker before :)
Susannah x
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7/4/13: Weekend
Daily life on Pom Pom island is far from the daily life in "the real world" BUT weekend is weekend even here and that means that yesterday and today have been days of relaxing!
So I guess I don't have a lot of work related things to tell today (don't worry tomorrow will be a very exciting day where we are using a kite to track turtles - yes it sound odd and it might not work but it will be awesome) however I do have a few funny facts about this place up my sleeve and am planning to drop them when there is nothing else to tell!!!
So here we go:
Title: Stars and jungle showers.
Description: TRACC is a very low budget research centre and we therefore don't actually have any proper builds. Now you might think: What the hell do you then have? I'll tell you! We have tents, tent like structures, things that look like tents, a few big tents and then we have the jungle shower!!! Yesterday I completely forgot about time and ended up having a shower at 7pm at which time it is already dark here but we have water 24/7 and so that was not a problem at all! However, as I was washing my hair I looked up and realized that the only place on the TRACC camp site that doesn't even remotely look like a tent is the shower...... The shower has no roof and so I was standing there in 29 degress looking up at the stars washing my hair - a very unreal feeling until it started raining..... Am wondering if they ran out of tent materials or if they are in fact just super enironmental friendly here and are trying to conserve water by having the sky supply some of it :)
Tomorrow I will return with stories of our kite flying turtle surveying! Until then, take care
Susannah x
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5/4/2013: Pom Pom island
So as I wrote earlier we had an awful storm last night - It was pouring down with rain for hours and we had thunder and lightening but at 7 am it was over and the sun came out!! The rate at which the weather can change here is absolutely amazing, one moment the sun is out and the next the whole sky is covered in clouds (the temperature still being crazy high though even when there are clouds everywhere).
Anyways, enough about the weather (I definitely cannot complain about the weather knowing that there was snow in Denmark when I left ;)...)!!
Yesterday Sofie, Fletcher and Joe arrived and we are now very busy setting up new science experiments, preparing for turtle season to begin and busy building more artificial coral reefs. Joe and Fletcher are the two stand-ins for Steve and last night they briefed us all on all the new exciting things we will be doing the next few months.
I am currently the only turtle volunteer which means that I will be completely in charge of the turtle surveying (yesterday I was already called Miss Turtle...). One of the things I will be doing is counting turtles along a transect going from the south tip of the island to the pier near our camp (a map will follow as soon as I find one I can upload). At high tide I will be surveying the area of the coral reef that is a sea grass bed and at low tide I will be surveying the dip of the edge which is located a little further out. I will then be counting the number of each species as well as what substrate they are found on and I will note the time, date etc. All of this will then later be combined with photographic area maps that we will create using a camera that is attached to a kite behind a boat...... Yeah we are not sure that will work but if we can make it work it theoretically should give us very good photos of the ocean bottom in the shallower areas onto which we can then map turle species' preference for substrate.
Because we need data at both high tide and low tide I will be surveying for about 4 hours a day (each snorkelling survey will take approximtaely 1 hour but I will also have to swim back) and the time at which I will be surveying varies a lot. Tomorrow I will be surveying low tide at 9.00am and 3.10pm which are both reasonable times BUT it is NOT always like that..... Today low tide was at 5am (I am only starting today so I was not to survey at 5am) so I will be out snorkelling at sunset some days!!! We might also extend the surveying to the 3 surrounding islands in the coming weeks so it will be a lot of hard work but am sure it will be absolutely AMAZING - I cannot wait for my first survey which will be in 2 hours!!!
In about a week or so the turtles will start nesting on the beach and we will then have to do turtle patrols at night time - this is to protect the eggs from fishermen etc! We will then to turtle walks twice every night (everyone including the divers will have to help out so this will not only be me) where we will collect all the turtle eggs and bring them to the hatchery where they will be protected until old enough to be set free again. Turtle eggs is a delicassee here in Malaysia and this is the reason why they need heavy protection if the populations are to rise again after severe fish bombing of the area.
WOW, that was a lot of information.... There are plenty more to tell but that above was a brief version of what I will be doing the next 12 weeks!!!
Now I have to go because lunch is almost ready and I need to set up for the surveying which I will be conducting straight after lunch when the tide is right.
I hope you are all well, take care until I write again
Susannah x
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5/4/2013: Pom Pom Island
Last night we had a crazy storm here and none of us therefore got very much sleep - now that our morning work is done I will head for a little nap and when I wake up I will write a post about all of the exciting things that are going on out here!!
I will also soon upload more photos!!
Susannah x
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3/4/3013: Pom Pom Island
Today I arrived on Pom Pom Island where I will be living the next 12 weeks! I barely got any sleep last night which was probably caused by a mixture of jetlag and excitement but I was surprisingly awake this morning. At 9.30am Zak came back to pick me up and drive me to the boat which was to take me to the island and after 45 min boat ride I arrived at what can only be described as a paradise island - it was as taken out of one of those exotic holiday cataloges!!
On arrival Tim (one of the TRACC staff members) showed me around the TRACC camp and gave me a brief explanation of everything I was to know about the daily living. I still don't know much about what I will be doing here because the professor that is running the centre, Steve Oakley, is unfortunately ill and won't be back on the island for a few months so another professor will arrive tomorrow and when he arrives I will be briefed on the ins and outs of the daily work.
Everyone here are so nice and have all been very good at explaining and helping me today. There are currently not very many people here, I am currently the only volunteer and then there are 3 interns (all of which have been here for more than 6 months, but the place will fill up in a few weeks which gives me time to get settled in before it starts to get extremely busy. Until then we will start the to prepare for turtle season which starts in a week or two and they seem keen on having me helping out with the diving side of things (building coral reefs) as well.
After a lovely first day in paradise I am now about to go to bed but I will write again soon, Susannah x
P.S The internet out here is not very stable but we are able to connect from the classroom (I will explain tomorrow) so I might not be uploading stories every day but I will write when I am offline and then upload several stories at once. Also, I bought a Malaysian simcard for my phone and as soon as I know how to use that I will probably have whatsapp etc
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